2. Vinales
Four hours to the West but a world away from Havana lies the stunning valley of Vinales. Lush, vibrant, agricultural, landscape, tranquil, rural bliss after the city madness. The low mountain outcrops (mogotes) soar over fertile plantations, tobacco crops, sugar fields, market vegetables. Here horse and cart dominate traffic flow (our bus followed this one for the last five miles into the town) setting the tone for a welcome slow down in the pace of life.
My new homestay room is with a "friend of a friend " of the family Hilda reserved for me. Um. Cuban casa mafia is hard, even impossible, to challenge but in this small bustling market town rooms seem identical so I see no reason to worry when I am directed to an alternative home and contently settle in to my tiny little bedroom (alcove). This is it, tucked into the nook of the main home, see, I even have my own wicker chair.
I resist the constant sales pitch from the ever present touts for walking tours of surrounding tobacco fields or the sugar plantations, guided hikes, treks, etc, irritatingly promoted by the casa family, friends and ,frankly, anyone and everyone in Vinales
Instead I insist I will find a bike to rent. Magically, despite early denials, when it becomes apparent I will not pay for anything else, a bike appears from another " friend of a friend". Lo, I can cycle freely in this national park after all. Funny that.
A blissful few days. Ten minutes ride from the town and I have the valleys and fields to myself, The heat is not too intense, the hills not too steep, and I follow dusty tracks through the stunning red earth landscape, winding my own way around this gorgeous scenic valley.
I sail past all but one of the advertised giant caves, visiting one to reassure myself I wasn't missing anything ( I wasn't).
I eat my picnic lunches under the shade of swaying palms, admiring the colorful chattering birds, the dragonflies darting over the abundant streams, the lizards sunbathing on the hot rocks and as darkness falls I sit peacefully under the bright stars absorbing the sounds of this small but busy market town, the hub of this rich agricultural area.
Vinales is a haven, secure in its UNESCO status, a national park protected from development where the well cultivated farms are prosperous and the small town comfortable with tourists. Mind, body and spirit duly revitalized. With hindsight I appreciate this even more, it is by far the most beautiful spot in the country, the highlight of my trip.
Four hours to the West but a world away from Havana lies the stunning valley of Vinales. Lush, vibrant, agricultural, landscape, tranquil, rural bliss after the city madness. The low mountain outcrops (mogotes) soar over fertile plantations, tobacco crops, sugar fields, market vegetables. Here horse and cart dominate traffic flow (our bus followed this one for the last five miles into the town) setting the tone for a welcome slow down in the pace of life.
My new homestay room is with a "friend of a friend " of the family Hilda reserved for me. Um. Cuban casa mafia is hard, even impossible, to challenge but in this small bustling market town rooms seem identical so I see no reason to worry when I am directed to an alternative home and contently settle in to my tiny little bedroom (alcove). This is it, tucked into the nook of the main home, see, I even have my own wicker chair.
I resist the constant sales pitch from the ever present touts for walking tours of surrounding tobacco fields or the sugar plantations, guided hikes, treks, etc, irritatingly promoted by the casa family, friends and ,frankly, anyone and everyone in Vinales
Instead I insist I will find a bike to rent. Magically, despite early denials, when it becomes apparent I will not pay for anything else, a bike appears from another " friend of a friend". Lo, I can cycle freely in this national park after all. Funny that.
A blissful few days. Ten minutes ride from the town and I have the valleys and fields to myself, The heat is not too intense, the hills not too steep, and I follow dusty tracks through the stunning red earth landscape, winding my own way around this gorgeous scenic valley.
I sail past all but one of the advertised giant caves, visiting one to reassure myself I wasn't missing anything ( I wasn't).
I eat my picnic lunches under the shade of swaying palms, admiring the colorful chattering birds, the dragonflies darting over the abundant streams, the lizards sunbathing on the hot rocks and as darkness falls I sit peacefully under the bright stars absorbing the sounds of this small but busy market town, the hub of this rich agricultural area.
Vinales is a haven, secure in its UNESCO status, a national park protected from development where the well cultivated farms are prosperous and the small town comfortable with tourists. Mind, body and spirit duly revitalized. With hindsight I appreciate this even more, it is by far the most beautiful spot in the country, the highlight of my trip.
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