4. Trinidad
Trinidad. The jewel in the crown of Cuba's architectural heritage, a UNESCO heritage site, ensuring the preservation of this historic gem of a colonial town.
Cobbled streets surround the beautiful Plaza Major, with its atmospheric cathedral and soaring bell tower. Flower filled squares, art galleries, music drifting from every corner. A tourist mecca but undeniably the most photogenic place in Cuba, an irresistibly charming place with an infectious bubbly, lively, ambiance.
For the first time in Cuba I feel welcome as a guest, my wonderful host family treated me with such kindness. Merlyn, despite having a three week old baby, and her mother continually ply me with free food and drink, sharing cake, yoghurt, smoothies, every time I go in and out of my room. And oh this is a lovely room, large, well equipped, comfy bed, blissful, constant hot water.
I decide to pay for breakfast, a gastronomical feast, enough for picnic lunch and even supper , taken away with their blessing. No pressure to buy extras, no extra charges, just straightforward kind hospitality.
On a roll with the cycle theme, I negotiate bike hire to wander the 15 km to the sandy shores of Playa Ancon. Swim in the warm clear waters and pedal back under the shadow of the red earth hills.
A perfect day trip, one I repeat. relishing the ride through the rocky coves, past deserted seaside 'villages', across the raised ridges of the wetlands, awash with birds.
Between cycling forays I trek up the hills surrounding the town. The views are fantastic, especially at sunset. The sun vanishes suddenly here so the descent down in the dark not such fun but achieved without incident, thanks to my a) remembering to carry a torch and b) the help of incidental companions, fellow backpackers from the bus.
Trinidad itself comes to life in the evening, when crowds gather in the open air from dancing and drinking. Mohitas are cheaper than water, fun for the masses, annoying for teetotal me. The salsa draws me in, I leap about on the steps with gay abandon, drunk only on bottled water and adrenaline.
The downside of Trinidad is the cost of living. It 'plays' to its audience in more ways than one. There are upmarket hotels outside the historic centre, it is a popular two night excursion from the all inclusive beach resorts of the north, bringing wealth and prosperity .
The classic car, emblematic of Cuba, the icon of advertising imagery, reemerges in Trinidad. Alas, such cars are definitely not an everyday site here, where in reality authentic modes of travel are either by four legged beast or by decades old fiats minus windows, brakes or bodywork, held together by rust and trust. Petrol is short so these beautiful classic cars are the preserve of high end tourism, at high end prices. I admire from afar.
I love my host family and enjoy my time here, I have now completed the tourist 'golden triangle of Havana, Vinales and Trinidad where government funded user friendly roads encourage visitors to admire the best of Cuba. But by declining guided excursions and heading off solo in each location I am increasingly aware of the deep divisions in this apparently classless communist state, increasingly aware that there is a bleak reality of dire shortages and a growing economic crisis bubbling uneasily underneath the tourist gloss and increasingly keen to understand more of what it means to be Cuban today.
I leave a generous tip for my fantastic hosts and set off to discover what lies beneath, heading out to the Cuban hinterlands.
Trinidad. The jewel in the crown of Cuba's architectural heritage, a UNESCO heritage site, ensuring the preservation of this historic gem of a colonial town.
Cobbled streets surround the beautiful Plaza Major, with its atmospheric cathedral and soaring bell tower. Flower filled squares, art galleries, music drifting from every corner. A tourist mecca but undeniably the most photogenic place in Cuba, an irresistibly charming place with an infectious bubbly, lively, ambiance.
For the first time in Cuba I feel welcome as a guest, my wonderful host family treated me with such kindness. Merlyn, despite having a three week old baby, and her mother continually ply me with free food and drink, sharing cake, yoghurt, smoothies, every time I go in and out of my room. And oh this is a lovely room, large, well equipped, comfy bed, blissful, constant hot water.
I decide to pay for breakfast, a gastronomical feast, enough for picnic lunch and even supper , taken away with their blessing. No pressure to buy extras, no extra charges, just straightforward kind hospitality.
On a roll with the cycle theme, I negotiate bike hire to wander the 15 km to the sandy shores of Playa Ancon. Swim in the warm clear waters and pedal back under the shadow of the red earth hills.
A perfect day trip, one I repeat. relishing the ride through the rocky coves, past deserted seaside 'villages', across the raised ridges of the wetlands, awash with birds.
Between cycling forays I trek up the hills surrounding the town. The views are fantastic, especially at sunset. The sun vanishes suddenly here so the descent down in the dark not such fun but achieved without incident, thanks to my a) remembering to carry a torch and b) the help of incidental companions, fellow backpackers from the bus.
Trinidad itself comes to life in the evening, when crowds gather in the open air from dancing and drinking. Mohitas are cheaper than water, fun for the masses, annoying for teetotal me. The salsa draws me in, I leap about on the steps with gay abandon, drunk only on bottled water and adrenaline.
The downside of Trinidad is the cost of living. It 'plays' to its audience in more ways than one. There are upmarket hotels outside the historic centre, it is a popular two night excursion from the all inclusive beach resorts of the north, bringing wealth and prosperity .
The classic car, emblematic of Cuba, the icon of advertising imagery, reemerges in Trinidad. Alas, such cars are definitely not an everyday site here, where in reality authentic modes of travel are either by four legged beast or by decades old fiats minus windows, brakes or bodywork, held together by rust and trust. Petrol is short so these beautiful classic cars are the preserve of high end tourism, at high end prices. I admire from afar.
I love my host family and enjoy my time here, I have now completed the tourist 'golden triangle of Havana, Vinales and Trinidad where government funded user friendly roads encourage visitors to admire the best of Cuba. But by declining guided excursions and heading off solo in each location I am increasingly aware of the deep divisions in this apparently classless communist state, increasingly aware that there is a bleak reality of dire shortages and a growing economic crisis bubbling uneasily underneath the tourist gloss and increasingly keen to understand more of what it means to be Cuban today.
I leave a generous tip for my fantastic hosts and set off to discover what lies beneath, heading out to the Cuban hinterlands.
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