9. Varadero
Alas, beaches in Cuba, outside the private all inclusive resorts of the cays, leave a lot to be desired. I am craving a few days of sun and sand so the best I can do as an independent budget conscious traveler is head to Varadero, where there is, as well as the ubiquitous resort hotels, a small town offering limited rooms.
Until recently staying in Varadero outside a tour package was banned, but times are desperate here so the restriction was lifted to allow us backpackers to bring money in to local folk rather than line the pockets of private hotel companies.
Many luxury hotels in Cuba are owned by off shore consortiums who even fly in their own staff, with the complicit consent of the politicians, and whilst the Government lines its coffers the villagers are in dire straits. Moves such as the one in Vardero have lessened criticism of the ruling classes and dampened down revolt but there are so few backpackers here, it is not too hard to find a decent room just a few hundred metres from the beach.
Prices are high, as usual, but I bargain for a free breakfast. It is small, obviously , being free, but it was lucky I negotiated this, as what little is available to buy outside the expensive hotel strip is extortionate.
The only food in abundance in the shops is out of date Pringles, retailing at over 5 CUC (£5 ) a tube. Even the affluent package tour visitors strolling the local streets draw the line at that, so row after row of bizarre flavour crisps remain gathering dust in otherwise empty shelves.
I sigh with my by now normal resignation to Cuban hospitality and spend 3 days on bananas, breadsticks and as many soft cheese rolls as I eat at breakfast.
This local end of the beach is relatively empty, the chain hotels line the far end of the 20km strip of sand, so I spend a blissful ( albeit rather hungry ) few days walking and even swimming in the warm shallows.
I am delighted to see pelicans, though literally just a handful. Wildlife here is so sparse the silence of missing birdsong has bothered me from the outset. There is not much to do on the beach so I make a hobby of following the pelicans. The little group stay together so tracking them down gives my walks a purpose. I relish my tranquil time.
Alas, beaches in Cuba, outside the private all inclusive resorts of the cays, leave a lot to be desired. I am craving a few days of sun and sand so the best I can do as an independent budget conscious traveler is head to Varadero, where there is, as well as the ubiquitous resort hotels, a small town offering limited rooms.
Until recently staying in Varadero outside a tour package was banned, but times are desperate here so the restriction was lifted to allow us backpackers to bring money in to local folk rather than line the pockets of private hotel companies.
Many luxury hotels in Cuba are owned by off shore consortiums who even fly in their own staff, with the complicit consent of the politicians, and whilst the Government lines its coffers the villagers are in dire straits. Moves such as the one in Vardero have lessened criticism of the ruling classes and dampened down revolt but there are so few backpackers here, it is not too hard to find a decent room just a few hundred metres from the beach.
Prices are high, as usual, but I bargain for a free breakfast. It is small, obviously , being free, but it was lucky I negotiated this, as what little is available to buy outside the expensive hotel strip is extortionate.
The only food in abundance in the shops is out of date Pringles, retailing at over 5 CUC (£5 ) a tube. Even the affluent package tour visitors strolling the local streets draw the line at that, so row after row of bizarre flavour crisps remain gathering dust in otherwise empty shelves.
I sigh with my by now normal resignation to Cuban hospitality and spend 3 days on bananas, breadsticks and as many soft cheese rolls as I eat at breakfast.
This local end of the beach is relatively empty, the chain hotels line the far end of the 20km strip of sand, so I spend a blissful ( albeit rather hungry ) few days walking and even swimming in the warm shallows.
I am delighted to see pelicans, though literally just a handful. Wildlife here is so sparse the silence of missing birdsong has bothered me from the outset. There is not much to do on the beach so I make a hobby of following the pelicans. The little group stay together so tracking them down gives my walks a purpose. I relish my tranquil time.
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