8. Santa Clara
My Che Guevara pilgrimage. This buzzing university town is an obligatory pitstop for anyone with an interest in Cuba's history and culture. Che s statue dominates the city, an impressive towering monument to this remarkable man.
As internal unrest in Cuba rises following Fidel Castro's death, I have been struck by the enduring, intense loyalty here to Che himself, whose body lies in peace here in a beautiful mausoleum.
The absorbing museum next door is a shrine to his life and times, a fascinating archive of a moment in history.
This charismatic revolutionary hero is revered for his passion and dedication to freeing Cuba from dictatorship and paving the way to the communist government. Finally shot by American soldiers in Boliva whilst pursuing his dream of socialist rebellion across continents, Che's memory is untouched by time, it remains unsullied by the allegations of corruption, past present and future, which mar the Castro regime
My own journey to 'worship' at the Che shrine was not an easy one. Frankly, nothing is ever easy in Cuba. There is one Viazul bus a day advertised from Holquin to Santa Clara. Unsurprisingly, it is not running. Surprisingly, for once, I am told I can travel on the national bus, with Cubans. When it appears.
By now I am resigned to the appalling infrastructure here and join a gaggle of stoically patient Cubans plus a few (not so patient) fellow backpackers to lurk hopefully in the bus station. Eventually a bus appeared, we boarded with relief, only for the driver to stop ten minutes later and insist on an hours lunch break. Rules are Rules.
And yes, yet again, 4 hours into an 8 hour journey and already running 4 hours late, the bus broke down. A rare silver lining, it did so in a town. So only a further 2 hour delay. Or, as they say here 'just 5 minutes, madam'.
By now I am thoroughly out of love with Cuba. The scenery this side of the island is boring, endless barren fields and scrub land with barely a bird or animal in sight. The darkness of night fall comes as relief from the sheer monotony of the dustbowl view. Fortunately we roll into town in time for me to find a decent little casa, and today my spirits lift as I enjoy this upbeat lively town.
It is easy to explore on foot, steeped in Che Guevara history at every turn, a refreshingly absorbing, stopover.
My Che Guevara pilgrimage. This buzzing university town is an obligatory pitstop for anyone with an interest in Cuba's history and culture. Che s statue dominates the city, an impressive towering monument to this remarkable man.
As internal unrest in Cuba rises following Fidel Castro's death, I have been struck by the enduring, intense loyalty here to Che himself, whose body lies in peace here in a beautiful mausoleum.
The absorbing museum next door is a shrine to his life and times, a fascinating archive of a moment in history.
My own journey to 'worship' at the Che shrine was not an easy one. Frankly, nothing is ever easy in Cuba. There is one Viazul bus a day advertised from Holquin to Santa Clara. Unsurprisingly, it is not running. Surprisingly, for once, I am told I can travel on the national bus, with Cubans. When it appears.
By now I am resigned to the appalling infrastructure here and join a gaggle of stoically patient Cubans plus a few (not so patient) fellow backpackers to lurk hopefully in the bus station. Eventually a bus appeared, we boarded with relief, only for the driver to stop ten minutes later and insist on an hours lunch break. Rules are Rules.
And yes, yet again, 4 hours into an 8 hour journey and already running 4 hours late, the bus broke down. A rare silver lining, it did so in a town. So only a further 2 hour delay. Or, as they say here 'just 5 minutes, madam'.
By now I am thoroughly out of love with Cuba. The scenery this side of the island is boring, endless barren fields and scrub land with barely a bird or animal in sight. The darkness of night fall comes as relief from the sheer monotony of the dustbowl view. Fortunately we roll into town in time for me to find a decent little casa, and today my spirits lift as I enjoy this upbeat lively town.
It is easy to explore on foot, steeped in Che Guevara history at every turn, a refreshingly absorbing, stopover.
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